In the Footsteps of the Incas: The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

posted in: Destinations, Hiking, Peru, Travel | 44

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu 4 days, 3 nights camping 26 miles, find out more www.compassandfork.comMachu Picchu is on many people’s bucket list. For some it is just a desire to visit the archaeological site, for others it is the desire to actually follow in the footsteps of the Incas, and walk the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or follow “Caminos Del Inca” as it is known in Spanish.

As keen hikers, we have wanted to hike this 26 mile, 4 day trail for a long time. Finally we did! Just us and 500 others; 200 fellow hikers and 300 porters to look after the hikers begin the hike together.

Walking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Many superlatives spring to mind when trying to describe both the hike and the experience. Being at the Sun Gate, the end of the hike, at sunrise on the 4th day is often said to be the highlight, but this sells the whole experience short. When you arrive at the sun gate you have a whole new appreciation about a lot of things; the ingenuity of the Incas, the beauty of the mountains, your own mental and physical abilities and camaraderie with your fellow hikers. It has everything a great hike should have and more. Flora, fauna, ancient ruins, mystery, great scenery and a finale that made it all worthwhile! Amazing what a difference 4 days can make.

In our small group we started with 7 hikers, the two of us and five young adults in their mid-twenties from Puerto Rico. We hike a lot and have lived at high altitude so have some idea what to expect on the hike. We own proper hiking gear and were outfitted accordingly. Several of our fellow hikers were not. They were unprepared in all regards- physically, mentally and a couple of them without proper gear.

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu First Glimpse of Incan Ruins on the Inca Trail www.compassandfork.com

And Then There Were Two

After breakfast the first morning they turned back. One person in their group was ill, the others were struggling and not sure they would make it. This means our support team is also split, as some will need to continue with us, and some will take the excess gear back with the other hikers. One guide goes with them, he will meet us again at Machu Picchu, and one stays with us. So suddenly we have a private tour! As they walked back the way we had come on day one, we headed onward.

Day one was relatively easy walking compared to what is to come. The first day of the hike passes through a couple of villages where you can purchase water (which is convenient as then you don’t have to carry as much). Many of the locals pass with their donkeys carrying provisions both for their own use and to sell to the tourists. Our first glimpse of the first set of ruins from the trail reveals a large complex. It is quite some distance away and we do not walk any closer to it. It is very exciting to see these first ruins!

Somewhat surprisingly the food while on the trail is excellent. A tent complete with table and chairs is set up for breakfast, lunch and dinner (and a chair is much appreciated with tired legs!) Our support crew cooks for us, makes camp and carries all of the general gear. A porter carries 5 kilos (11 pounds) for each of us. This is our sleeping bag, a change of shoes, and our toiletries. We each carry a day pack with our personal items; camera, rain gear, warm weather gear, a flash light (worn on your head to keep your hands free), first aid kit and water.

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Camp on the Trail www.compassandfork.com

Reaching Dead Woman’s Pass

So in a much smaller group of just us, we set out on day two for the big climb. In today’s walk we reach the highest point on the hike, Dead Woman’s Pass at 4,214 meters (13,825 feet). We are starting from camp at about 3000 meters. The weather is spectacular and it looks like a great day for a hike. Off we go and almost immediately the hike is much more strenuous than the day before. The grade is steeper and we quickly reach the “paved” portion of the path. On the first day the hike was primarily a dirt path, today almost of all of it will be on the stone paving of the Camino Del Incas. Some of the trail is stairs and after a few hours, it also dawns on us we will be climbing down much of this again today on the other side of the pass!

As we walk, there are many other people on the trail. We left early so in the morning there were not as many people, but the porters pass us in a steady stream, despite the fact they are carrying much more weight than us.

After several hours walking, we come around a corner, and there is our team, with our mid morning snack. What a pleasure to see them! They greet us with soap and warm water to wash up. (This is how we are always greeted and it is much appreciated.) We have a cooked snack and a seat to rest and prepare for the really steep climb ahead. This will be our last food until lunch, which is still several hours (and on the other side of the pass) away. During this break several other hikers reach the same general area where they too stop for a break with their groups.

The climb to the pass is steep and the going is quite slow. There isn’t a lot of talking, just a few brief exchanges. Lots of “where are you from?” and other general tourist chatter is heard between the hikers. Most people are moving slowly and struggling to breathe. There are lots of stops to admire the scenery (catch your breath) and words of encouragement received or offered to others.

We arrive at the pass, stop to rest and take a few pictures, then begin the climb down. There are still lots of people headed up the trail, and we still have several hours of downhill walking to get to camp.

There are many smaller ruins along the trail, at many of these we stop to explore. This is an unexpected dimension on the hike. Walking along it is easy to imagine the Inca’s living here. The stone path we walk is the “road” they used in everyday life. This is how they would have reached nearby villages or gone to Machu Picchu itself. The complex of roads and buildings is quite extensive. The Inca’s used a series of checkpoints or guardhouses along the trail. It is surmised this is how they kept track of movements and perhaps collected taxes or kept the roads safer, their exact purpose is not known.

These checkpoints are still in use on the Inca Trail. Each morning the numbers of hikers are counted, at some points identity is rechecked and the porters all must check-in and have their gear weighed. It is regulated how much weight they can carry, it cannot exceed 25 kilos 55 pounds). Garbage must also be weighed and packed out. The trail takes an incredible amount of traffic each year and these regulations help maintain and preserve the trail, as well as look after the health and well being of the porters. The trail is closed each year in February for maintenance.

As we arrive at camp, which is at 3600 meters (11,800 feet) tonight, we are exhausted. It has been a great day but we are glad to arrive. We are some of the early arrivals. As we talk to our other fellow hikers in other camps, many people in their group still have not arrived. Some people still trickle in after dark. There has been heavy rain in the afternoon and the rocky path has become quite slippery, making it slower for those still on the trail. But everyone makes it safely and that’s all that matters.

 

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Scenes from the Inca Trail

Reaching Wiñayhuyna Camp

Tomorrow (day 3) is also a long day of hiking. We cover about 15 kilometers (9 miles) with much of it at high altitude and several passes before finally reaching the last campsite of Wiñayhuyna (2,650 meters or 8,700 feet). This is the closest camp to Machu Picchu.

The highlight of day 3 is climbing through the steep terraces. You can see the terraces off in the distance earlier in the hike. It takes most of the afternoon to actually reach them. These terraces were used for agriculture and are incredibly steep. The complex itself is huge and it takes some time to climb through the terraces to rejoin the trail to Machu Picchu.

When we finally arrive at camp today our support team is all there waiting with smiles and a warm meal. Our support team turn out to be one of the highlights of our trek. They are all very considerate and it feels like you have your own cheer leading team. As we leave each morning they stay and break camp. We see them again as they catch-up and pass us, always with a smile. And they are always at camp, set-up and welcoming us when we arrive. Frank, our guide walking with us, provides details of the ruins and the trail as we go. He is a very soft spoken local who has walked this trail many times and dare I say, he makes it look easy.

This is our final night camping! Our cook goes all out and makes us the most magnificent strawberry cake for dessert! Using a pressure cooker so it rises at altitude, it has icing and real strawberries! Better than fine dining at a restaurant any day! We couldn’t believe it!

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Agricultural Terraces www.compassandfork.com

Arriving at the Sun Gate

We turn in to bed early as we are getting up in the middle of the night, 4 am, for breakfast and the hike to reach the Sun Gate (Inti Punku) at sunrise. As mentioned at the beginning, this is often billed as the highlight. In our case when we arrive at the Sun Gate, the fog was so thick in our pictures it looks like we are standing in front of a white wall. There was no spectacular picture postcard view of Machu Picchu; in fact there was no view of Machu Picchu at all.

As we continue walking down to the actual village of Machu Picchu, the fog begins to lift slightly. However the fog adds to the atmosphere, and the mysticism of the place. The real advantage of arriving early at the site is many of the tour buses are not there yet so the site is not as busy.

We meet our guide again from day two, (he had to return with the hikers that turned back) Juvie, and have a wonderful tour of Machu Picchu. The site itself is extensive and well preserved (and restored). Having a guide will help you get the most from your visit, as they explain what things are and how they would have been used by the Incas. (The site is not signed.)

Machu Picchu was built in the 15th century and abandoned about 100 years later. It is believed to have been used by Incan royalty and their caretakers, probably supporting a population of about 500-1000 people at its peak. The site includes ceremonial, residential and agricultural areas. It was “discovered” by the western world in 1911, by Hiram Bingham, a professor from Yale University. You can read National Geographic Magazine’s original coverage “Rediscovering Machu Picchu” from 1913 online.

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu The Trapezoidal Doors a hallmark of Incan Construction www.compassandfork

Agua Calientes

As part of our tour, we organized to stay an extra day, so we were returning to Machu Picchu again the next day, and because we hadn’t had enough walking, we were climbing Machu Picchu Mountain, one of the two mountains at the site to get the classic postcard view.

So being tired, dirty and looking forward to a shower we head down to Agua Calientes for lunch with our guide. Agua Calientes is the closet town to Machu Picchu. If you come via the train from Ollytaytambo (in the Sacred Valley) or Cusco, the train ends in Agua Calientes and you transfer to a bus to transit to Machu Picchu. It is primarily restaurants, tourist shops, and hotels to support visitors to Machu Picchu. There are some hot springs here (the name translates to Hot Waters).

Knowing we would be looking forward to a comfortable bed and a hot meal, we splurged and stayed in a great hotel which included dinner and breakfast. This saved us having to search for a restaurant for dinner. A couple of Pisco Sours later, a great, sit-down dinner and a long, hot soak in the large bathtub in our room before bed, and we felt as good as new.

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Agua Calientes www.compassandfork.com

Our Return to Machu Picchu

Early the next morning, at breakfast, we had a very special treat. We were sitting near a window overlooking the Urubamba River, when we saw a bear! We had been making jokes about spotting a bear on the trail; apparently it is very rare to see one. While we were eating, a young bear came down to the river for a drink! The staff at the restaurant confirmed it is very rare to see one at the river.

So we were off to a good start! In addition the weather gods were smiling on us and the day was beautiful. Blue sky and not a cloud to be seen! Perfect opportunity for the iconic postcard shot of Machu Picchu!

We did get wonderful pictures this day, had a slower wander around the site, and climbed up Machu Picchu Mountain where we were rewarded with some spectacular views. Our day, and our adventure, ended with the train ride back to Ollytaytambo and a taxi ride back to Cusco. But our memories will last a long, long time!

In the Footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu view from Machu Picchu Mountain www.compassandfork.com

Planning Your Trip to Machu Picchu

Planning ahead is essential. Machu Picchu is the most popular tourist attraction in Peru. Visitor numbers are strictly controlled and at peak times sell out months in advance. If you plan to go during peak season May to September it is recommended to book a year in advance.

Hikers on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu are limited to 500 permits daily, only 200 of which are guests (the other 300 are porters carrying gear). You cannot hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu without a guide and porters. Visitors numbers to the site of Machu Picchu are limited to 2,500 per day. If you want to climb either of the mountains at the site, Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain this requires an additional permit and numbers are limited to 400 and 800 people respectively.  The official government website has more information and sells tickets.

You can walk the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or reach the site hiking one of several other trails.  If you do not want to hike you can travel via the train from Cusco or Ollytaytambo. You cannot drive to Machu Picchu. It is highly recommended to organise your transport, entry tickets and your hiking permits at the same time.

You will definitely need to allow several days to acclimate to the altitude before you begin the hike. These first days can be spent exploring The Secrets of the Sacred Valley which is at slightly lower altitude than Cusco, and then a couple of days exploring Cusco itself. For more information about traveling around Peru including how to acclimate to the altitude look for our post later this month about travel tips in Peru.

You will be booking this well in advance, and if you are hiking at high altitude some travel insurance policies consider this a risky activity.  Check for more information and find out What you Need to Know About Travel Insurance.  Always read the terms and conditions so you know what is covered.

Using a Local Company

We booked with a local trekking company, IncaTrekkers, and highly recommend them. Everything was top notch:

  • The guides were friendly and knowledgeable (and passionate about their heritage).
  • The food and service were excellent.
  • A packing list is provided so you know what to bring.
  • Tents and other equipment were clean and in good condition.
  • The porters were well looked after and properly attired including hiking boots and clothing for cooler weather.
  • Everything was professional and ran to schedule.
  • It was all inclusive, including a pre-trip briefing in Cusco, pick-up and return transportation to Cusco, permits, train tickets and they also organized our tickets for our extra day at Machu Picchu and permits to climb Machu Picchu Mountain on that day.
  • It was much less expensive than some of the large international outfitters.

The owner Juvenal (Juvie) Iturriaga is personally involved in every trek. He met us for the pre-trip briefing, started the hike with us and guided us through Machu Picchu. He runs an excellent company and looks after his employees and it shows. This was a great trip and we have some great memories of him and his team.

We were happy to use a local guide. The benefits of using a local company are many including the fact more of the money stays in the local community and it provides local jobs.

You can also use IncaTrekkers services for touring Machu Picchu without doing the hike to get there. They also provide guide services for other trails in the area. You can see their excellent reviews on Trip Advisor or find them on Facebook.

Have you walked the Inca Trail or visited Machu Picchu?  Do you have any other advice?  If you have any questions we didn’t cover, please leave a comment below.  We would love to hear from you and we answer all comments.

In the footsteps of the Incas The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu 26 miles, 4 days, 3 nights Read all about it, click here. www.compassandfork.com

44 Responses

  1. Sreeram
    | Reply

    Amazing post, I will be traveling to the South and Central America for a year starting from May. Thanks for sharing this.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      You will love your trip. And Machu Picchu is a magical place. Thanks for your comment.

  2. Tracie Howe
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    You’ve got some great information here! Machu Picchu is of course on my bucket list and I’ve been imagining this hike in my head, not knowing about any of the details. It’s nice to know that the hike is limited to 500 people! I’m glad to have your post to refer to when I actually plan the trek. Do you know what gear the people you started out with didn’t have? I can’t imagine why they would need to turn back if the porters can carry so much of the essential gear!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Hi Tracie. Well one guy was walking in loafers! They had come from sea level and admitted they had not done much training. My feeling is they thought it was going to be a “walk in the park” and hadn’t taken the hike seriously enough. Also, they had gone white river rafting a few days before and some were not feeling well – having swallowed some river water.

      We have hiked at altitude a fair bit in Colorado, but even we were surprised how tough the hike was. You are over 10,000 feet most of the way. Having said all of that, I found it an incredibly powerful and emotional experience.

  3. Marta Cunha Grilo
    | Reply

    You’re right! Machu Picchu is in many people’s bucket list, including mine! I’m planning to go there next year and I couldn’t be more excited about it! Great post!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Hope you enjoy Machu Picchu Marta, it lives up to the hype. It is simply magnificent. Thanks for your comment.

  4. Pascaline
    | Reply

    Great Post! Hiking to Machu Pitchu as been on my list for ever, can’t wait to make it happen! Thanks for this details about the trail!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      The hike is brilliant You will love it. Thanks for your comment.

  5. Valerie D. Perry
    | Reply

    Great post! I’ve been wanting more info about this hike and your write up gave me the details I needed. Thanks!

    And I’ve heard about how amazing the food is on the hike! Glad you had a similar experience.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Valerie, it is a spectacular hike and truly moving when you arrive at Machu Picchu. Thanks for your comment.

  6. Jessica
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    Wow. this is an all package post. Glad to know those general and specific details you have shared. I hope soon I can use this guide of yours. 😉

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Jessica, you will love Machu Picchu. Definitely, one of the greatest sights I have seen. Thanks for your comment.

  7. Jennifer McMillen
    | Reply

    I have always loved looking of photos in this region. It is absolutely beautiful! Maybe eventually my family and I will make our way to South America.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      South America is very different to any other continent, that’s for sure. We have also been to Patagonia (Chile and Argentina) and Uruguay and have enjoyed them all. Thanks for your comment.

  8. evan kristine
    | Reply

    Amazing detailed article and thanks for sharing your experience! I’ve seen loads of people who has been wishing to hike Machu Picchu (I’m one of them).

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Honestly Evan it is a highlight. We are so glad we hiked it. Thanks for your comment.

  9. Gemma
    | Reply

    Two! I can’t believe it. We were in the same position as you, we had a couple of members of the group who weren’t able physically and one because of altitude. The food was incredible, they made us a cake – I can’t even make a cake a ground level never mind meters above sea level. Nice to read other people’s experiences of treks in Peru!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Good don you Gemma. We can’t speak highly enough of our outfitter. The other 5 in our group were just not prepared. But we ended up being treated like a king and queen. Thanks for your comment.

  10. Himanshu
    | Reply

    Inca and Machu Picchu are ultimate fascination for me. I have to be there once in this life time.
    Thanks for awesome clicks and detailed information.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      When you are there you have to pinch yourself. The history, the scenery and the spiritual power of the place are overwhelming. Thanks for your comment

  11. Ajay Sood
    | Reply

    Local support is the best – I agree!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Ajay, Yes our whole support team was just fantastic. So positive and happy to share their country.

  12. Voyager
    | Reply

    Wonderful and epic trip, have been wanting to get to Machu Picchu for some time now, hope it happens someday.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Keep it on your bucket list. You will get there eventually and you will love it. Thanks for your comment.

  13. Stéphanie Langlet
    | Reply

    You really had a fabulous experience and I enjoyed a lot to read your adventure : I was following you 😉

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Stephanie, It was a great hike! And we had a great support team. Could not have asked for better.

  14. Rob Taylor
    | Reply

    So, smallest part of the story, but OMG, you saw a bear? How random and surprising (to me). Really great account of the experience though. 🙂

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Rob, It was really random. We had been joking about it with our guide (as in it is just not going to happen) and then there we were at breakfast! We also saw a jaguar in the rainforest in Peru. Another very rare citing apparently. We were with another guide (not our own) and when we told our guide he thought we were kidding. It was only the second time the guide had seen one in the jungle. So we are on a roll!

  15. Ami
    | Reply

    On my list for a long time. Saving up for it 😀 and your guide is definitely gonna help

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Ami, Using a local tour operator saved us a lot of money and the service could not have been better.

  16. Jennifer St Louis
    | Reply

    Machu Picchu has been at the top of my bucket list for sometime now. It looks amazing and your photos are fantastic!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Jennifer. It was one our list for a long time! So glad we finally went and it was worth it!

  17. Liesbeth
    | Reply

    This looks great! I’ll be visiting Peru next year and this is obviously on my list!! 🙂

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Liesbeth, As soon as you know your dates, organize your trek and Machu Picchu tickets.

  18. melody pittman
    | Reply

    Your visit looks amazing. I’ve heard great things about Inca Trekkers, I would definitely use them for my trip. Hoping to get there in 2017!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Melody, I hope you make it. Book early to go to Machu Picchu.

  19. Renne Simpson
    | Reply

    I found this extremely helpful as I just booked a trip to Machu Picchu! Going there with a couple other friends in April and I’m both nervous and excited about it. I’m going to look into the trekking company you recommended.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Renne, Do it soon! It is extremely popular- you need to organize a trek well in advance to get the permits. You will love it.

  20. Wow, this is definitely something I want to do today, it looks incredible! Love your detailed account, I felt like I was almost there 🙂

    • Well, obviously not *today* haha. Sometime I meant!

      • Editor
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        Jessi, Thanks for commenting. I hope it does inspire you to walk it someday.

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Jessi, Glad you enjoyed the account. It was a great hike.

  21. I don’t really have words – what an adventure indeed!

    • Editor
      | Reply

      Emma, I will take speechless as a positive reaction! It was a great adventure.

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